1

Once Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon, “Lucille”, the famous mistress, the famous English designer early XX century, decided to cross the Atlantic, and they with her husband purchased tickets on a luxurious ship. On the night of 14 April 15, 1912, he sank. Yes, it was the “Titanic.” Sir Cosmo, Lucille and her secretary were among those who went to the place in the lifeboats. Alas, many are out of luck.

A lady-fashion designer has lived for a long time and has created a lot of exciting outfits. In memory of that time, in memory of her salvation and in memory of those who have never put anything because I was on the bottom of the ocean, we want to offer you a look at the most beautiful costumes of the Belle Époque, which created the Lucille and her colleagues.

Who would have guessed that the history of costume, fashion history will be associated with such a disaster? But since it happened …

Openwork lattice wrought

2

Jean-Philippe Worth, who became head of the famous fashion house after the death of Charles Frederick Worth, created a dress no less refined than his father. This outfit embodies the elegance of art Art Nouveau. Basis of satin ivory and black velvet pattern – as if looking at a white background through a wrought-iron openwork lattice … All items were woven separately, taking into account their future place – so that part of the dress pattern merged into a single unit.

In 1976 it gave a dress Metropolitan Museum Eva Dahlgren, Drexel, niece Elizabeth (Bessie) Drexel, secular beauty, which, being an elderly lady who wrote a very scandalous memoirs. After her death the house in Paris with all its contents, including the famous portrait of Bessie brush fashionable portrait painter of the time, Giovanni Boldini, passed to her niece. There were also boxes, which were stored luxurious evening and ball gowns, mostly from Worth. The museum gratefully accepted the gift, and has been for many years, black-and-white graphics magic dress eclipses the brilliance of many others.

The museum dates back to his 1898-1900 years. However, when you consider that in 1899 Bessie Dahlgren suddenly widowed and the next two years wore mourning (until she married for the second time), the dress was obviously booked before. Last greetings from one century to another!

And yet – and this is very few people know – in the same museum has, you might say, “cousin” of this dress, only patterns on it is not black and gold.

Hybrid ball gown and robe

3

The Belle Époque beautiful even homemade outfits. Back in the 1870s in vogue so-called tea gowns, which is often translated as “tea-dress,” but, rather, they can be called “pay for informal receptions home.” More comfortable, more free than usual ladies’ costumes of the time, but at the same time very elegant. Ladies first wore them exclusively at home – it was permissible for them to go down to tea, and then under the condition that you do not expect outsiders. And then softened the rules of etiquette, and at the turn of the centuries could have put them on the dinner to which the invited guests, and later they all got out of the house.

This dress 1900 from the fashion house Maggie Ruff from the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum embodies perhaps the charm of his fellow – very elegant and conjures up thoughts of the intimacy of the boudoir (for that, add the many outfits criticized). This is a real “cocktail” of Parisian delights and oriental exotic: breeches sewn from thick silk ivory and decorated with long front from the throat to the floor, insertion of embroidered cloth, apparently, India. The upper dress with shaped cut hem and draped sleeves, made of delicious Irish lace. Alas, we do not see him from behind, but the museum we can tell you a secret, reports that there is hidden “fold Watteau ‘rest, reminiscent of the flowing shoulder line coat – a cut of the ladies adored rococo.

In short, you see, it’s really a “hybrid ball gown and robe,” probably the most apt definition of these dresses!

Peacock dress

4

Vice-Queen of India, Mary, Lady Curzon, appeared at the ball in Delhi in honor of the coronation of Edward VII in 1903, in a dress that went into the history of costume as the “Peacock”. And with all the luxury outfits, in which the ladies were at this ball, Lady Curzon still stood out, as it should be queen (even “vice”). Fabric made Indian masters, served as the basis of a silk chiffon, embroidery – pattern of overlapping peacock feathers – was made of gold and silk threads. And in the center of each piece Peacock inserted from the wing scarab beetle, a popular in the XIX century, the exotic material for finishing. The tissue is then sent to Paris, to the house of Worth, and sewed a dress already there. The luxurious long train decorated with more and large silk roses. And weighed it, mainly because of the embroidery, about 4.5 kg – well, not so much!

Today outfit kept in the museum Kedleston Hall in Derbyshire.

One of the guests of the ball described Lady Curzon in peacock dress this way: “You can not even imagine how magical it looked!”

Vice-Queen of India, Mary, Lady Curzon, appeared at the ball in Delhi in honor of the coronation of Edward VII in 1903, in a dress that went into the history of costume as the “Peacock”. And with all the luxury outfits, in which the ladies were at this ball, Lady Curzon still stood out, as it should be queen (even “vice”). Fabric made Indian masters, served as the basis of a silk chiffon, embroidery – pattern of overlapping peacock feathers – was made of gold and silk threads. And in the center of each piece Peacock inserted from the wing scarab beetle, a popular in the XIX century, the exotic material for finishing. The tissue is then sent to Paris, to the house of Worth, and sewed a dress already there. The luxurious long train decorated with more and large silk roses. And weighed it, mainly because of the embroidery, about 4.5 kg – well, not so much!

Today outfit kept in the museum Kedleston Hall in Derbyshire.

One of the guests of the ball described Lady Curzon in peacock dress this way: “You can not even imagine how magical it looked!”

What a bend!

What a bend!

5

And this evening dress from the collection of the Institute of Costume in Kyoto – just the embodiment of fashion beginning of XX century. S-shaped line of modernity is reflected not only in the fanciful architecture, furniture and patterns, but also in the female figure. With special corsets created a special silhouette – low lush bust played forward, waist tightened, totally flat stomach, but the “fifth point”, underlined a cut skirts and overlays, issued a very noticeable. The smooth, flowing silhouette, ongoing train, which lies at your feet, like a fan … No, no, no tilts forward – head set very straight, his back straightened, but the waist strong deflection. Today, many such silhouette seem strange and pretentious, and then the men were crazy about him!

Fabric and trim dresses – also true Art Nouveau, pale green silk chiffon and stylized floral patterns (embroidery and appliques of velvet).

Greetings from the past

6

Name of the Rose Genon remembered today except that the Italian historians of costume and once she herself taught this story. Dressmaker, feminist scholar – a complex mix! But it is such a variety of interests allow her to create amazing things. And in an era when the whole world was going crazy on the work of the Parisian couturiers, Rose Genon refers to the Italian Renaissance. In 1906, it creates a luxurious robe “Pisanello”, inspired by the images of this great artist will give kvartrochento. Mantle of green silk velvet and yellow satin, embroidered with gold, silver, beads and trimmed with lace. Wearing it over a dress, you can go to any grand European royal court etiquette which required special occasions dresses with a train. And at the same time feel as if were back when the world anxiously watched not for France and Italy for the …

ancient beauty

7

But the outfit that hung out of time, thanks to its classic beauty. This dress-Mariano Fortuny Delphos-and-Madrazo, a Spaniard by birth, lived most of his life in Venice. His works sang Marcel Proust in his “Finding Lost Time”.

Fortuny invented “Delphos” about 1907. Cover, as we see, is simple: the long dress – sleeveless or with sleeves “bat”. It gently hugs the body, emphasizing its lines, but not constraining. However, the main beauty – in the tissue. In the history of this technology is included as “Fortuny pleating” – small graceful folds perfectly keep their shape, and today look almost the same as a half-century and a century ago. To save pleating, kept the dress collapsed as skeins. On the sides, around the holes for the head and arms, sewn silk cords, which are strung beads Murano glass – they make heavier light dresses and make not float separately from the body, and to follow his path. Stained “Delphos” in different shades – each individually, sometimes several times, causing color acquired special depth.

Of course, these outfits very far from the one that offers women the then fashion, with its multilayer and rigid corsets, and at first they were only at home. But in this as they have enjoyed great success. Wrote about them: “You may have a dozen, and every time, in any environment, the dress will look very picturesque, although Epicurean would consider that the best way they look when they are specifically selected to the environment.” Interestingly, in some circumstances it is picked up a silver dress? ..

Landysheva wedding

8

Jeanne Paken, one of the most influential and well-known Parisian couturier, not only ordered it loved, but respected colleagues, and the second, you see, is found much less frequently than the first in the fashion world. Suffice it to say that in 1913 she was the first female designers received the Legion of Honor!

And if talking about beautiful dresses, you can not do without a wedding, then let it be a magic dress from the most Paken created in 1910. Silk cover, transparent tulle in tiny polka dots, satin strip, but, more importantly, lilies of the valley! Lilies of the valley on the bodice, at the ends of the belt in her hair … And it is not worse than the traditional orange blossom, orange blossom. Or maybe even better!

Ardor in fashion

9

World of Art Nouveau – a world of delicate colors. The silver-gray, lilac, lavender, pale green, blue and other shades languid – that they did not care less languid than they are, ladies era. And suddenly, in the early 1910s, the world explodes inside with bright colors! Famous Russian ballet seasons with exotic scenery and costumes maddening Parisians, and after them the whole of Europe. Russian artist Leon Bakst teach fashionistas love the combination of blue and green, pink and orange, return the draft to the red, and the French fashion designer Paul Poiret will pick up and will develop this theme. Down with the soft, long live the fervor!

And we cheat and show not one, but two dresses – very well, they look exactly close. Slightly inflated waistline; layers of chiffon, tulle and lace – on top of the bottom layer made upper, shorter tunic; loose draped bodices – typical outfits of recent years before the First World War. And as a tribute to the new fashion – saturated colors. Who exactly made a pink dress, we do not know, but the green – from Jeanne Lanvin (note, of Lanvin fashion house still exists).

Gourmet sorbet

10

It is impossible to talk about the fashion of the time and does not show at least one of Paul Poiret dress, personality, whose role in the history of mixed suits. He could, as they say, apply themselves, and loudly said that “introduced a fashionable trousers”, “abolished the corset” and so on in the same spirit. In fact, no one person can not change the mode alone. Suppose that in the US it was nicknamed “King of Fashion”, and this name is then taken up by many, alone on the throne of the fashion of that time he had not ruled. However, the courage, brightness, quest for originality reject Poiret impossible.

So let’s take a look at one of his most famous creations, dress “sorbet”. Why “sorbet”? On white and black background stand pink, violet and pistachio patterns – the color of this dessert. Maybe this outfit Poiret invented not alone, but in collaboration with Erte (Roman Petrovich Tyrtova, a famous painter and set designer), who at the time was an assistant Poiret. This happened, according to various sources, whether in 1912, then in 1913.

Corsage, resembling the Japanese kimono, also with asymmetrical coloring, overestimated waist and upper skirt “shade” – in the instance that is kept in the Victoria and Albert Museum (his wife was wearing Poiret, Denise), her skirt is trimmed with fur. Of course that this shade kept, I had to insert a thin wire. Appeared in such attire then I could afford only a very brave lady! But believe me, these ladies are.

Dress-disaster

11

But this dress created a year after the death of “Titanic.” Moreover, the woman who created it, was on the ship – and survived. The same Lucy, Lady Duff-Gordon, an Englishwoman who boldly invaded the area where almost completely dominated by the French – and won. “The world of women’s fashion for years lying at her feet” – so wrote about the “Lucille” – under this name she entered the history of fashion.

She and her other colleagues-designer, abandoned corsets, and suddenly it turned out that the woman may be tempting, even if you do not pull her waist to the limit – just enough to designate it as the dress of cream crepe de chine. But what is a wide velvet belt, and how it contrasts with the soft cloth!

A sophisticated draping on the skirt? There is a cut – it is almost invisible, and it is so artfully hidden folds of fabric that even if there are catches a glimpse of the feet, it will be only tempting, but not provocatively. However, for those years, and it was a challenge! Lucille admitted: “May I even nothing more is done in my life, but I have shown that a woman’s leg may be the epitome of beauty, not just” part of the body “of which only a whisper can be said in the dressing room.”

This dress – almost the same age as the catastrophe of “Titanic.” However, in its harmony it forever.

As well as the beauty of the era, not without reason dubbed the “Perfect!”

LEAVE A REPLY